Making your CCM maker reach its full potential.

Valves-
One of the most common complaints with the CCM markers, specifically the pump markers, is with hammer bounce. This is the common burping or "farting" sound when you fire the gun. Holding the pump handle forward makes the problem much more audible, but the problem is there even when not holding the pump handle. Here is some theory, some practice, and some fixes I have found, first starting with the "clone" markers.

Here is a pic of a couple valves. The first one is a DYE valve, which is dimensionally VERY similar to a WGP valve, but in my opinion, its slightly better (too bad they are discontinued). The second is the latest (as of Sept of 2005) CCM valve. The third is the 2003 and early 04 valve from CCM markers. Last is a Rat 3:16 valve from shocktech.

click picture for larger view

Notice the difference in the shoulder length of the first two valves? This will cause the compression (or lack of) in the valve spring. The CCM valve actually in many markers will not fully seat in the valve body unless air pressure is applied. This even with a heavy valve spring will prevent the gun from sealing when air is applied unless the gun is cocked. Not a big deal, but I find it annoying.

Also notice the slightly shorter shaft length? This will cause the valve to not open fully. OR, this will cause the hammer to smack the jam nut easier. This is the "SMACK" sound when you dry fire a gun with a heavier main spring than valve spring. This can actually damage the jam nut if done a lot. In some guns this also damage the valve. But it should damage this valve unless something is REALLY messed up.

So? What do I use in my J2 semi and "Godless" a series 5 like pumper? I use WGP style valves. I have found that the blue madman valve spring, combined with the heavy hammer and CCM main spring work quite well. Pressures are in the 350-450psi range, so efficiency is pretty good. Much better than my stock efficiency from my J2.

And my SS25 prototype? Well, I made a whole new valve body. It uses the stock WGP cup seal, and uses similar geometry for the spring pre-loads and porting dimensions. Its similar to a spyder valve, Trilogy valve, and a few others. I havent tried those other valves in my SS yet (i will sometime soon), but I have given the print to Nor-Cal Paintball, and also to Paintball Maxx. K&P Customs will get it as well. This new valve, combined with a slight modification to the ASA adapter, made for a very nice shooter. Efficiencies are very good, consistencies are right on as well with good paint. And now it can use standard valve springs (cant use anything but the CCM spring from the factory).

I am also working on a couple other performance mods. We shall see how they turn out.